I must say, I have never had a very keen interest in the Battlefields. The only knowledge that I have, or had, is from the history lessons in school, which in any case is a lifetime ago. We also never had any forefathers fighting in any of these Boer wars or Zulu wars and I have just always been detached from all of it, however like anything, if you are at the place and you hear the passion of the guide taking you through the actual "battles" and you see the vastness of the area where these battles were fought, you get sort of engrossed and it is as if you also become part of the history.
Our first stop was at Spionkop. It is a hair raising trip up to the "kop", especially with a campervan but once there, in the cold howling wind, you begin to understand some of the hard ships that those soldiers must have been faced with. Very glad not to have been involved with that war. Many people died, as most of them were totally unprepared for the conditions, the duration of the battle and the fact that they ran out of food and the shear fastness of the area to be defended.
We arrived in Dundee late afternoon and moved into the campsite, called Kwa-Rie for the next 3 nights. What a lovely place. Small, pleasant and with great people. It was really like a family camp. There was a heard of 6 Blesbok that lived on the property, which is quite big, as well as lots of birds, a huge Boerbull, some ducks and geese and rabbits and cats. A bit like a family farm. Beautiful sunrises as well. Good braais and lekker kuier place.
We did several battlefields over the next 2 days. One day on our own to the Blood river site, where there is a laager built in exactly the way it was in the original battle. Very impressive. That is the whole Piet Retief story where they Boers made the Covenant to keep 16 December as a Sunday, if God granted them the victory over the Zulus. It is a powerful bit of history of South Africa and many present day Afrikaners had people fighting in those wars. We also visited the Zulu memorial site where we were mr. Tsabalala, who gave us some input on the Zulu side of the story.
The following day was spent in the company of a well versed military historian and Battlefied expert, Johan Hamman, who took us to Isandilwhani and Rorke's drift. The first where many British soldiers were killed by the Zulu Impis through a whole series of miscommunication and the second where the Brits fought a brave war with 35 men against hundreds of Zulus and drove them off. It is indeed a story of great bravery and many British soldiers were awarded the VC for their contribution in this particular battle.
I think we were all a bit "Battlefield weary" after this day. Nothing that a few glasses of wine and a Chicken potjie could not rectify. We had a lovely last evening together, with all the "thanks" and "good Byes" etc.
Now only the journey back to Johannesberg!!!
Saturday, November 20, 2010
Royal Natal National Park
We woke up om the first morning in the Drakensberg with SNOW on the mountains!!No wonder it was so cold the night before. OK, it was not snow down to the road, but snow none the less. The day was clear and it looked like the Reception lady was right about the weather for the day. After breakfast we set off to the Royal Natal National park to go and do the hike to the Tugela gorge.It was not a strenuous walk, however we spent the best part of the day walking, chatting, taking photos and generally admiring the beauty of the area that we were in.
At one of the spots where we stopped to have a short rest, we heard a huge commotion in the trees. It was clearly a bird couple making all the noise. Well the next moment a boomslang fell to the ground about half a metre from where one of our guys were standing. Well, needless to say, the moment was not captured on camera, as the snake was away in a flash and so was Martin.
We did not make it to the very end of the Gorge and stand under the Tugela falls. It was just too far and it was pretty hot as well, however we all felt happy that we had gone as far as we had. When I work out how to attach pics, I will add on.
The original plan was to drive from the Drakensberg to Ballito and then to Dundee the next day. Well by general consensus of the group and much to our delight they decided to cut out Ballito and several hundreds of kilometers and on the next day we headed off to Dundee and the Battlefields.
At one of the spots where we stopped to have a short rest, we heard a huge commotion in the trees. It was clearly a bird couple making all the noise. Well the next moment a boomslang fell to the ground about half a metre from where one of our guys were standing. Well, needless to say, the moment was not captured on camera, as the snake was away in a flash and so was Martin.
We did not make it to the very end of the Gorge and stand under the Tugela falls. It was just too far and it was pretty hot as well, however we all felt happy that we had gone as far as we had. When I work out how to attach pics, I will add on.
The original plan was to drive from the Drakensberg to Ballito and then to Dundee the next day. Well by general consensus of the group and much to our delight they decided to cut out Ballito and several hundreds of kilometers and on the next day we headed off to Dundee and the Battlefields.
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
in the Drakensberg
Again, I have to say that we live in an amazingly beautiful country. Over the last few days we have spent time in the Addo, travelled to Gariep Dam and then to the Drakensberg. What variety, what beauty and what a priviledge to have been able to do it. My Dad always used to say that should explore your own country first before you venture out to travel the rest of the world. Needless to say I did not always agree and needless to say, now that I am getting older and hopefully wiser, I have to agree. Last year Dick and I travelled through Ethiopia, which was a wonderful experience, however today, as we travelled through the Golden Gate and into the Drakensberg, I just said to Dick that this is so like some parts of Ethiopia and we have it right here in our own country and more accessable and really just as astounding.
We spent a lovelly day in Addo. We went on an early morning drive and just enjoyed the park and the animals. The best for me was the time we spent just sitting at a waterhole watching the elephants doing elephant things, like playing, schooling the young ones, disciplining the unruly ones and generally being a family. I must say that after having read the book, The Elephant Whisperer, elephants make a lot more sense to me. Well worth the read. The evening we went on a game drive with one of the local guides in the open vehicles. It was freezing cold,,however we saw a Caracal (rooi kat) within touching distance from us, walking like only a cat can and then just to show who actually owns the park, walked across the road right in front of the truck.The guide assured us that it is a very rare sighting, so we really appreciated the effort that the caracal had put in. The night before we were sitting around the braai fire, after having eaten and through the fench a Small Spotted Genet appeared. It just set there and looked at us and was very happy to be photographed by those who were fortunate anough to have their camaras with them. It was a truelly "Ahah" moment for me.
When we left Addo we travelled through too Cradock and then to Gariep. All of this also beautiful country. You go through hills and valleys and the Eastern Cape is so different that it is well worth travelling the road to just experience it. Gariep dam is obviously not full this time of year and neither was the campsite, other than a group of Indian/Pakistani men on a safari through South Africa. They have been travelling for between 2 and 4 months, depending on who you spoke to. They are spending about 2 nights in at a time in any given place. I am not sure what their mission is, but then agian, each amn to his own. The stretch of road on the N1 to Bloemfontein is hardl top of my "marketing list".Luckily once we had turned off the N1 and we were heading for Bethlehem and Senekal and Clarens things changed. The towns were pristine and Bethlehem is a town expanding as if it was on steriods.
The journey through the Golden Gate to Drakensville is the Drakensberg is just a trip that should go on any serious travellers' itenary. It is a must do . We arrived in Drakensville late afternoon with clouds on the mountains, but with the assurance from the "receptions lady" that tomrrow will be a clear day. We hope and trust that she is more reliable than SA Weather, as we want to go and explre Royal Natal National Park tomorrow.
We spent a lovelly day in Addo. We went on an early morning drive and just enjoyed the park and the animals. The best for me was the time we spent just sitting at a waterhole watching the elephants doing elephant things, like playing, schooling the young ones, disciplining the unruly ones and generally being a family. I must say that after having read the book, The Elephant Whisperer, elephants make a lot more sense to me. Well worth the read. The evening we went on a game drive with one of the local guides in the open vehicles. It was freezing cold,,however we saw a Caracal (rooi kat) within touching distance from us, walking like only a cat can and then just to show who actually owns the park, walked across the road right in front of the truck.The guide assured us that it is a very rare sighting, so we really appreciated the effort that the caracal had put in. The night before we were sitting around the braai fire, after having eaten and through the fench a Small Spotted Genet appeared. It just set there and looked at us and was very happy to be photographed by those who were fortunate anough to have their camaras with them. It was a truelly "Ahah" moment for me.
When we left Addo we travelled through too Cradock and then to Gariep. All of this also beautiful country. You go through hills and valleys and the Eastern Cape is so different that it is well worth travelling the road to just experience it. Gariep dam is obviously not full this time of year and neither was the campsite, other than a group of Indian/Pakistani men on a safari through South Africa. They have been travelling for between 2 and 4 months, depending on who you spoke to. They are spending about 2 nights in at a time in any given place. I am not sure what their mission is, but then agian, each amn to his own. The stretch of road on the N1 to Bloemfontein is hardl top of my "marketing list".Luckily once we had turned off the N1 and we were heading for Bethlehem and Senekal and Clarens things changed. The towns were pristine and Bethlehem is a town expanding as if it was on steriods.
The journey through the Golden Gate to Drakensville is the Drakensberg is just a trip that should go on any serious travellers' itenary. It is a must do . We arrived in Drakensville late afternoon with clouds on the mountains, but with the assurance from the "receptions lady" that tomrrow will be a clear day. We hope and trust that she is more reliable than SA Weather, as we want to go and explre Royal Natal National Park tomorrow.
Monday, November 8, 2010
From 60 to Addo
So the 60th birthday arrived on Friday and the transition to retirement was made very swiftly. I learned on day 1 that it is actually ok to forget things, that you can legally do silly things and that you are entitled to pensioners' discount. Had my dad been alive, he would have been so proud of me.
Well it was a free "do what you like day" with the group, so Dick and I was off into Oudtshoorn early for a breakfast with the required champagne. The best of a birthday for me are the phone calls. Always my Ma first and normally by 6 in the morning and this morning was no exceptiom. I received many calls and messages and it was great to be remembered by so many people on my special day. Not many pressies as I was not at home and I did'nt have a party!!!Will have to address that when we get home. We went to the ostrich farm as I had threatened to ride an ostrich on my 60th birthday, but I chickened out and only sat on the ostrich. The only volunteers to ride the ostrich was at least 50 years younger than me and I thought that even if it is allowed to do childlike stuff when you get to 60, I was not quite ready for this.
The rest of the day was spent sipping champagne and in the evening we all had a braai together and i got little gifts and things from the group, as well a birthday cake and they sang Happy Birthday to me. Not just any old singers either. Two members of the group were choir members of the BBC choir in England until very recently!!!
On Saturday we left Oudtshoorn and travelled to Storms Rivier via Knysna and Plettenberg Bay. It is just to incredibly beautiful and it was a stunning day. We got to Storms River at about 5, after a visit to Monkeylend and Birds of Eden. The birds were well worh the visit. On arrival at Storms river all went for walks. The sea was like a mirror and we were parked nearly in the sea. It was great. We didnt spend the evening with the group as Elma and Eugene Steyn, our friends from Plet came to spend the evening in the park as well, specially for my birthday. We had a lekker evening, drinking champagne and excellent red wine, provided Eugene. Needless to say the braai was equally good. We left them older wiser and very happy.
Sunday we went for an early walk and tackled the road to Addo where we booked in at about lunch and by 4 we were off to see Elephants and more elephants and Kudus and just to generally enjoy the park.
Tomorrow off to Gariep dam.
Well it was a free "do what you like day" with the group, so Dick and I was off into Oudtshoorn early for a breakfast with the required champagne. The best of a birthday for me are the phone calls. Always my Ma first and normally by 6 in the morning and this morning was no exceptiom. I received many calls and messages and it was great to be remembered by so many people on my special day. Not many pressies as I was not at home and I did'nt have a party!!!Will have to address that when we get home. We went to the ostrich farm as I had threatened to ride an ostrich on my 60th birthday, but I chickened out and only sat on the ostrich. The only volunteers to ride the ostrich was at least 50 years younger than me and I thought that even if it is allowed to do childlike stuff when you get to 60, I was not quite ready for this.
The rest of the day was spent sipping champagne and in the evening we all had a braai together and i got little gifts and things from the group, as well a birthday cake and they sang Happy Birthday to me. Not just any old singers either. Two members of the group were choir members of the BBC choir in England until very recently!!!
On Saturday we left Oudtshoorn and travelled to Storms Rivier via Knysna and Plettenberg Bay. It is just to incredibly beautiful and it was a stunning day. We got to Storms River at about 5, after a visit to Monkeylend and Birds of Eden. The birds were well worh the visit. On arrival at Storms river all went for walks. The sea was like a mirror and we were parked nearly in the sea. It was great. We didnt spend the evening with the group as Elma and Eugene Steyn, our friends from Plet came to spend the evening in the park as well, specially for my birthday. We had a lekker evening, drinking champagne and excellent red wine, provided Eugene. Needless to say the braai was equally good. We left them older wiser and very happy.
Sunday we went for an early walk and tackled the road to Addo where we booked in at about lunch and by 4 we were off to see Elephants and more elephants and Kudus and just to generally enjoy the park.
Tomorrow off to Gariep dam.
Thursday, November 4, 2010
The Swartberg Experience
Well, if ever I had the opportunity again to do something really special on the day before my 60th birthday, I would repeat today's experience. We were all picked up by a local guide to take us on the Swartberg experience. Now we have travelled over the Swartberg pass many times but today was just so different. The trip was slow, the wheather was good, to start off with, the guide was passionate about the mountain and we stopped often for the record shots. We have travelled over many mountain passes in our travels, but the Swartberg must remain the Mother of all passes to me. In On Route in South Africa Lawrence Green writes: "I have travalled only one road in my lifetime more dramatic and that was the fifteen thousand foot pass beyond Darjeerling that leads into Tibet and I am more than willing to agree with him (not that I have ever been to Tibet)
The thing that made the day was the fact that the guide from True South Travel is not only a guide, he is involved with the whole conservation of the Swartberg area. We stopped off at the Tolhuis, which has been beautifully restored, for a cup coffee and some fresh homebaked chocolate cake before we travelled down to Prince Albert. The Tolhuis now forms the "head quarters" of their community project called HOPE and it is about upskilling and providing educational facilities to the local community.
As we travelled down to Prince Albert I was just again gomsmacked about the ongoing awesomeness of the Swartberg. You cannot compare the scenery to anything else. It is unique, it is overwhelming and it is in our own beautiful country. Again the British group were in awe of the beauty and diversity of our country.
We had lunch in Prince Albert at the Prince Albert Country store and it was true Karoo, slow roasted lamb, ovenroasted veggies and lots of fat local olives, washed down with some of the local wine made at Bergwater. Well worth the money as well. After lunch we drove back to Oudtshoorn via Meiringspoort, which as also so scenic in a different way again. We stopped off to walk to the waterfall and then it was back home and again an early night. All this " being a full time tourist" is exhausting work, but very good preparation for retirement, so roll on end of November!!!
The thing that made the day was the fact that the guide from True South Travel is not only a guide, he is involved with the whole conservation of the Swartberg area. We stopped off at the Tolhuis, which has been beautifully restored, for a cup coffee and some fresh homebaked chocolate cake before we travelled down to Prince Albert. The Tolhuis now forms the "head quarters" of their community project called HOPE and it is about upskilling and providing educational facilities to the local community.
As we travelled down to Prince Albert I was just again gomsmacked about the ongoing awesomeness of the Swartberg. You cannot compare the scenery to anything else. It is unique, it is overwhelming and it is in our own beautiful country. Again the British group were in awe of the beauty and diversity of our country.
We had lunch in Prince Albert at the Prince Albert Country store and it was true Karoo, slow roasted lamb, ovenroasted veggies and lots of fat local olives, washed down with some of the local wine made at Bergwater. Well worth the money as well. After lunch we drove back to Oudtshoorn via Meiringspoort, which as also so scenic in a different way again. We stopped off to walk to the waterfall and then it was back home and again an early night. All this " being a full time tourist" is exhausting work, but very good preparation for retirement, so roll on end of November!!!
Wednesday, November 3, 2010
The Tractor adventure day
What a thrilling day we had today. We left the Bontebok Park at 8, after a quick drive though the park and then we set off to Montagu. Yet again the familiar road was like new when seen through the eyes of the tourists. Once through Montagu we went along the Touwsriver road and up onto the Burgerspas. At the top of the pass we turned into the Protea farm for our Tractor ride up the mountain. I am not sure what I had in my mind about this ride, but it was not what I had expected. We all got onto the tractor or the trailer or the little "bankie " in front of the tractor or onto the back of the trailer. There must have been about 50 people all together. Other than our group, the rest were all local South Africans.
The first bit of the journey is along a jeep/tractor track, through the protea fields and as you get higher and higher the track gets narrower and then it is like 2 sement tracks up the mountain. There are not exactly any drop offs on the sides, however it feels mighhty tight if you are sitting on the side on the trailer. We had a photo stop where the 'omie" sort of just bundubash up a path. The views are spectacular as one overlooks the Koo valley. A little further along he stopped again and said that we are halfway and that we can walk for a bit if we wanted to. Well I walked the rest of the way up, which was great. At the top one can see just about the whole Boland and you are within spitting distance of Arangieskop. We then back tracked a little for a little Muscadel and dried fruit at the overnight hut if one was doing the hike to Arangieskop. Strange but welcome as we were warned that the trip down is hairy. Anyway the muscadel of the area is good stuff at the worse of times. Our visitors also enjoyed tasting all the unfamiliar things, like the local dried peaches. I swopped my " window seat" with Dick and the trip down was not so hairy as I could chatter about all sorts with Sam, who is a lovely lady and never short of chatter, from making desserts to travel to anything else. She was a nurse and managed health care facilities. She reminds me of some other well connected family and friends.
Lunch was a feast to say the least. The starter was a bread table. There were 2 types of very home baked bread, with jam, vetkoek and vetkoek "sticks". Mains were 3 different potjies, Beef curry, chicken and waterblommetjiebredie. Also soet patats and pampoen. The best was the groups response to all this. They could not stop talking and eating and trying all the different new things. We even got left over take aways of the bread and the vetkoek. We walked the long 700 m back to our vehicles and that was much needed exercise. A afternoon nap was high on the priority list, however we had to get to Oudtshoorn before dark and the shops closed. Some to get provisions for the next few days and me to get Champagne for my birthday on Friday. Nogal a challenge in Oudtshoorn. Lots of JC Le Roux and very little proper stuff.
Tonight we are in Kleinplasie, which must be one of the best caravan parks in SA.
The first bit of the journey is along a jeep/tractor track, through the protea fields and as you get higher and higher the track gets narrower and then it is like 2 sement tracks up the mountain. There are not exactly any drop offs on the sides, however it feels mighhty tight if you are sitting on the side on the trailer. We had a photo stop where the 'omie" sort of just bundubash up a path. The views are spectacular as one overlooks the Koo valley. A little further along he stopped again and said that we are halfway and that we can walk for a bit if we wanted to. Well I walked the rest of the way up, which was great. At the top one can see just about the whole Boland and you are within spitting distance of Arangieskop. We then back tracked a little for a little Muscadel and dried fruit at the overnight hut if one was doing the hike to Arangieskop. Strange but welcome as we were warned that the trip down is hairy. Anyway the muscadel of the area is good stuff at the worse of times. Our visitors also enjoyed tasting all the unfamiliar things, like the local dried peaches. I swopped my " window seat" with Dick and the trip down was not so hairy as I could chatter about all sorts with Sam, who is a lovely lady and never short of chatter, from making desserts to travel to anything else. She was a nurse and managed health care facilities. She reminds me of some other well connected family and friends.
Lunch was a feast to say the least. The starter was a bread table. There were 2 types of very home baked bread, with jam, vetkoek and vetkoek "sticks". Mains were 3 different potjies, Beef curry, chicken and waterblommetjiebredie. Also soet patats and pampoen. The best was the groups response to all this. They could not stop talking and eating and trying all the different new things. We even got left over take aways of the bread and the vetkoek. We walked the long 700 m back to our vehicles and that was much needed exercise. A afternoon nap was high on the priority list, however we had to get to Oudtshoorn before dark and the shops closed. Some to get provisions for the next few days and me to get Champagne for my birthday on Friday. Nogal a challenge in Oudtshoorn. Lots of JC Le Roux and very little proper stuff.
Tonight we are in Kleinplasie, which must be one of the best caravan parks in SA.
Tuesday, November 2, 2010
4 days down the line......
We do have an amasingly beautiful country, however if you experience it through the eyes of foreign travellers it just becomes so much more obvious.
For the first time in my life I did a coach tour around the Peninsula on Saturday and what an experience. We did all the real touristy stuff, like the boat trip to Duiker Island from HoutBay harbour to see the seals, the visit to Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point, the ride up to the Light house ( I walked) the penquins at Boulders and a walk through Kirstenbosch. The best of all was the fact that out tour group were so taken up with our wonderful city. It was really like the sense of well being that we all experienced with the World cup.
On Sunday morning we picked up our motorhomes. We went home quickly to pack our things in and I am surprised that there was anything left in the house . Luckily we had dropped Ebony of at Bert's house on the way, otherwise she would have ended up in the van as well. I am sure she would have love it, however she was very excited about her holiday away as well.
Our first stop in our motorhomes was Mountain Breeze Caravan park just outside of Stel;lenbosch. What a beautiful setting, in the shadow of the Stellenbosch mountains under the tallest of tall Stone Pines. The best was the Mountain breeze farm stall, with wine on sale on a Sunday. I very quickly educated our new friends that a good bottle of wine does not have to cost more than R20. They bought into this immediately and have not looked back.
On Monday we were off to Onrus via Mooiberge Farm Stall, for more under R20 wines, strawberries and anything generally available, necessary or not. We took the Clarens drive route, which at the best of times is a world class drive and out group really experienced it as such. We first stopped off in Hermanus for more shopping. When you camp you are forever in need of more stuff, mostly of the "in case" type. The park in Onrus is beautifully situated and there is a wonderful walk along the coast on a well maintained foot path. All the way along there are little plaques in memory of people which just adds to the enjoyment of the walk.
Today we drove to Swellendam and we are spending the night in the Bontebok National Park outside Swellendam. It is a park we have not been to for many years and it is now hugely improved. The camp sites are well situated, the ablutions are the best we have experienced so far and ther are fantastic new chalets. Not sure how much they are per night, but I would think that it would be well worth while to explore the possibilities to stay over in them. This park is so close to Cape Town that we should really visit it more often.
Tomorrow we are off to Montagu and then Oudtshoorn and more adventures. The motorhome thing is very new to us, however our fellow travellers are all seasoned caravanners and motorhomers. All 4 couples are our sort of age and sort of retired and chilled in the way they do their holiday, so there is lots of stopping, tea drinking, slow cooking/braaiing at night and much appreciation of good wine. So life is good at the moment.
For the first time in my life I did a coach tour around the Peninsula on Saturday and what an experience. We did all the real touristy stuff, like the boat trip to Duiker Island from HoutBay harbour to see the seals, the visit to Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point, the ride up to the Light house ( I walked) the penquins at Boulders and a walk through Kirstenbosch. The best of all was the fact that out tour group were so taken up with our wonderful city. It was really like the sense of well being that we all experienced with the World cup.
On Sunday morning we picked up our motorhomes. We went home quickly to pack our things in and I am surprised that there was anything left in the house . Luckily we had dropped Ebony of at Bert's house on the way, otherwise she would have ended up in the van as well. I am sure she would have love it, however she was very excited about her holiday away as well.
Our first stop in our motorhomes was Mountain Breeze Caravan park just outside of Stel;lenbosch. What a beautiful setting, in the shadow of the Stellenbosch mountains under the tallest of tall Stone Pines. The best was the Mountain breeze farm stall, with wine on sale on a Sunday. I very quickly educated our new friends that a good bottle of wine does not have to cost more than R20. They bought into this immediately and have not looked back.
On Monday we were off to Onrus via Mooiberge Farm Stall, for more under R20 wines, strawberries and anything generally available, necessary or not. We took the Clarens drive route, which at the best of times is a world class drive and out group really experienced it as such. We first stopped off in Hermanus for more shopping. When you camp you are forever in need of more stuff, mostly of the "in case" type. The park in Onrus is beautifully situated and there is a wonderful walk along the coast on a well maintained foot path. All the way along there are little plaques in memory of people which just adds to the enjoyment of the walk.
Today we drove to Swellendam and we are spending the night in the Bontebok National Park outside Swellendam. It is a park we have not been to for many years and it is now hugely improved. The camp sites are well situated, the ablutions are the best we have experienced so far and ther are fantastic new chalets. Not sure how much they are per night, but I would think that it would be well worth while to explore the possibilities to stay over in them. This park is so close to Cape Town that we should really visit it more often.
Tomorrow we are off to Montagu and then Oudtshoorn and more adventures. The motorhome thing is very new to us, however our fellow travellers are all seasoned caravanners and motorhomers. All 4 couples are our sort of age and sort of retired and chilled in the way they do their holiday, so there is lots of stopping, tea drinking, slow cooking/braaiing at night and much appreciation of good wine. So life is good at the moment.
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